Lancashire - Kirkham

Unpasteurised milk is used to make this superb example of traditional Lancashire, and the process is unique amongst English cheeses. Cooled evening milk is added to the warm morning milk and rennet is added; the curd is cut by hand with curd knives and then allowed to settle with a view to retaining as much fat as possible. The whey is drained off and the curd is stored for the night. The following morning the previous day's curd is milled and mixed with the day's fresh curd in a proportion of one to two. Keeping the curd overnight encourages the development of the acid which gives the cheese its striking whiteness and sharp edged flavour. Then the cheese are salted, pressed in muslin and allowed to dry out.

Lancashire is particularly good for making Welsh Rarebit. Many years of experiment and pleasure suggest that the best recipe calls for four slices of thin buttered and trimmed toast kept warm while four tablespoons of butter are gently melted and half a pound of Lancashire cheese - crumbled between fingers- half a pint of beer, two egg yolks, two tablespoons of mustard, a couple of dashes of Worcestershire sauce and a shake of cayenne and paprika are stirred slowly together until the mixture is completely smooth, poured over the toast and browned under the grill.